The perfect gift for you and your loved ones. Learn more.
How to identify hyaluronic acid in creams ?
October 12, 2023
Hyaluronic acid or sodium hyaluronate: It is one of the active ingredients in the most effective anti-aging creams.
If it is in the top positions of the INCI (list of ingredients), it means that it is also one of the main ingredients of the product. Here's how to recognize it and find the best face creams.
Discovered in 1934 in the vitreous body of the bovine eye and chemically examined in 1954, hyaluronic acid* has since come a long way in the history of aesthetic medicine, cosmetics and other medical fields.
Hyaluronic acid is a key molecule in relation to skin aging*.
The benefits of hyaluronic acid for skin quality have been confirmed by various studies* published in prestigious scientific journals, including the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. This topic is currently being intensively researched.
In particular, what is repeatedly noticed is that hyaluronic acid has the ability to retain subcutaneous water and significantly hydrate the skin, both internally and externally, thanks to the different molecular weight classes of hyaluronic acid.
It is a self-hydration ability of the skin that decreases over time: at age 20, the skin can retain about 75 to 100% water, but over time this proportion decreases, reaching about 25 after the age of 65 %*.
This phenomenon is also visible in the loss of cartilage in the joints, another area of research and treatment in which hyaluronic acid plays a central role, as a component of synovial fluid (fluid that fills and protects the joint cavity).*
What is hyaluronic acid
It is a polysaccharide* with a strong moisturizing effect and the unique ability to retain water.
The effectiveness depends on the quality of the product used and not, as one might think, on the amount of active ingredient.
It is present in human and animal connective tissue, tendons, skin, cartilage and more. It keeps skin deeply hydrated by attracting water molecules, resulting in a visible firming and plumping effect.*
Hyaluronic acid, cosmetic use and anti-aging effects
In the normal process of cell renewal, the human body eliminates the existing hyaluronic acid and creates new molecules through molecular synthesis. This process slows down with age. Because of this, it feels as if the skin is drying out from the inside, which leads to the formation of the dreaded wrinkles.
Buy now - face cream
A distinctive feature of hyaluronic acid is its ability to bind a large amount of water molecules, at least 1000 times its own weight. Therefore, it is used to improve skin moisture and maintenance.
Pure hyaluronic acid is not suitable for cosmetic applications, so it is advisable to be careful with marketing advertisements promoting it in this form.
In fact, hyaluronic acid becomes viscous at concentrations above 1% and is therefore not suitable for daily use in cosmetics.
What are the best creams with hyaluronic acid?
The most effective creams with hyaluronic acid have a composition that can achieve better results. This is based on a combination of different molecular weight classes and other substances that can support the effect (for example vitamin C, retinol, collagen, ceramides, prebiotics, peptides and many other beneficial ingredients).
The best creams that contain hyaluronic acid among the first ingredients (often as sodium hyaluronate to make it more water-soluble) are those with different molecular weight classes: low, medium and high.
This composition makes them more effective as they act on different layers of the skin from the dermis to the epidermis and help the skin retain water both externally and internally, making them work in combination.
Cream with hyaluronic acid in different molecular weight classes: proven effectiveness
As shown in a recent study entitled "Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in wrinkle treatment" *, the combination of different molecular weight classes of hyaluronic acid is actually the decisive factor for the effectiveness and results of on creams available on the market.
The study demonstrated the effectiveness of a new formulation with different molecular weight classes of 0.1% hyaluronic acid (50, 130, 300, 800 and 2000 kDa respectively). This formulation was tested in the eye area on seventy-six female subjects as a random wrinkle treatment over a period of 60 days. It showed significant improvements compared to a placebo cream applied to the other eye, improving skin elasticity and overall hydration.
Effects of hyaluronic acid on the epidermis
On the epidermis, the high molecular weight of hyaluronic acid prevents water from evaporating by creating a barrier and extensively hydrating the skin.
On the other hand, the low and medium molecular weight, due to their smaller molecular structure, reach the dermis, the deepest layer of the skin, and increase the volume from the inside by retaining water.
Since persistently severely dehydrated skin leads to long-term volume loss, which promotes the formation of wrinkles, continuous hydration contributes significantly to keeping the skin in shape: it remains firm, smooth and plumped.
Did you know that...
The high moisturizing effect of the different molecular weight classes of hyaluronic acid, in combination with other substances such as prebiotics, ceramides and moringa seeds, creates a cream that deeply hydrates to ensure the natural moisture and lipid balance and immediately tightens the skin.
The formula developed by the RedMoringa 2.0 laboratories is based on Moringa Oleifera extract, a plant protein complex that has extremely moisturizing and anti-aging properties and protects the skin from pollution, UV rays and stress. It is like a real treasure trove of youth and protection for our skin, combating the signs of time after the first applications.
Polysaccharides: A generic name for a broad family of natural chemical compounds with variable molecular weights over a wide range. During hydrolysis, they release two or more molecules of monosaccharides per molecule (source: Treccani).
Hyaluronic acid: One of the fundamental components of connective tissue in humans and other mammals. It gives the skin its special properties of firmness and shape retention. A lack of hyaluronic acid weakens the skin and promotes the formation of wrinkles and imperfections (Source: Wikipedia).
Sodium hyaluronate: Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. It is a glycosaminoglycan and a long polymer of disaccharide units of Na-glucuronate-N-acetylglucosamine. It can bind to specific receptors for which it has a high affinity (Source: Wikipedia English).