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The differences between high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid
You often hear about high or low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, especially in relation to facial creams and serums. What is the difference? Is one variant more effective than the other?
To answer these questions, let's start with the definition of hyaluronic acid.
Table of contents
- What is hyaluronic acid
- High molecular weight hyaluronic acid
- Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid
- How is the skin structured?
- Inci hyaluronic acid creams
What is hyaluronic acid
Recognizable in the composition of creams and serums on labels with the name sodium hyaluronate (sodium hyaluronate), hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide that is found in various products - cosmetics, dietary supplements, medicines - as a water-soluble sodium salt.
According to the definition in Wikipedia, which in turn comes from the Britannica encyclopedia, it is "one of the fundamental components of the connective tissue of humans and other mammals.
It gives the skin its special properties of resistance and dimensional stability.
A lack of it leads to weakening of the skin and promotes the formation of wrinkles and imperfections.
The concentration in the body's tissues decreases with age."
In addition to the connective tissue of the skin and body, hyaluronic acid is also present in other tissues:
- in the vitreous humor of the eye;
- in the synovial fluid;
- in cartilage;
- in the tendons;
- in the umbilical cord;
- in the walls of the aorta.
In chemistry it is called a glycosaminoglycan, which is soluble in water but has low solubility in hydrophobic tissues (that repel water). On the market, it is converted into sodium hyaluronate, a salty form that makes it a water-soluble substance and "produces macromolecules with a mass of over 1000 kDa, which give clear solutions with high viscosity."
Diverse uses of hyaluronic acid: from osteoarthritis to dry eyes
The scientific and informative journal WebMD in collaboration with the doctors of MedicineNet.com emphasizes the importance of hyaluronic acid as a kind of 'cushion' with a lubricating effect in the joints and other tissues and its potential for the treatment of injuries.
The main uses concern cataract surgery, where the injection of hyaluronic acid into the eye is effective when used during the surgical procedure, and the treatment of canker sores, where it is applied as a gel or used as a rinse.
High molecular weight hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is found in the deepest layer of the skin, the dermis, and is a component of synovial fluid (which fills the joint cavity and protects the joints).
It is commonly used in the manufacture of eye drops because it is FDA-approved for the treatment of dry eye syndrome and tissue regeneration. Nowadays it is an important tool in aesthetic medicine due to its powerful anti-aging effects.
In fact, the skin loses 'fluids' with age: hyaluronic acid gradually decreases and we also notice the effects on the joints.
For this reason, its use in cosmetics and aesthetic medicine is now widespread.
However, the effect on the skin and its regeneration and firmness depends on the molecular mass of the hyaluronic acid.
A high molecular mass of hyaluronic acid indicates a molecular size that cannot penetrate the epithelium, approximately between 1800 and 3000 kilodaltons.
However, it has a firming effect and serves as a protective barrier for the skin by preventing it from losing water, drying out and becoming dehydrated.
Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid
Low or very low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (between 10 and 1000 kilodaltons) has smaller particles that are able to penetrate the inner layers of the dermis. Their function is to nourish the plexus from the inside and improve the natural support of the epidermis.
How is the skin structured?
In order to better understand how serums and creams with hyaluronic acid work, it is important to understand how the skin is structured.
The skin consists of an outer layer called the epidermis, which serves as a barrier to the innermost layer, the dermis. The deepest layer, the subcutis, connects the epidermis with the underlying fatty tissue.
The epidermis, the most exposed layer of the skin, is also the hardest to penetrate because it is made up of densely grouped keratinocytes.
Due to this dense structure, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid cannot go beyond the epidermis and prevents water from evaporating from the inside, while low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can break the barrier because its molecules are smaller, thus achieving a tightening effect by penetrating deeply.
"Keratinocytes synthesize and store structural proteins (keratins) inside and then transfer to the surface to form a protective layer (stratum corneum) themselves. This process is called keratinogenesis."
In the deeper layers, a physiological process of cytomorphosis begins, which leads them to death as they rise to the surface of the skin (granulosum layer) and subsequently (stratum lucidum and stratum corneum) to their final transformation into keratin lamellae, an extremely resistant scleroprotein fibrous material. From here, keratin can take on a harder form (nails, hair cortex), while in the epidermis the grouping takes place in the form of microfilaments and is referred to as 'soft keratin'.
Inci hyaluronic acid creams
In the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) on cream and serum labels, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid refers to low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, while sodium hyaluronate usually refers to high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.
The classic concentrations of hyaluronic acid in cosmetic products are usually between 0.1 and 1% and represent the maximum effectiveness in terms of skin moisturization.
Higher concentrations are used in regenerative surgery because the formulation is much more viscous and unsuitable for cosmetic applications.
References:
- *https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acido_ialuronico
- *https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3583886/
- *https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-1062/hyaluronic-acid
- * https://www.medicinapertutti.it/argomento/cheratinociti/
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